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Discussion Starter #121
Crawlr, it isn't possible for the tip magnet to be so far behind the pivot point that it has no effect. If you mean it is outside the tangent of the pivot point a bit, it still has tremendous leverage. For it to have no effect on engagement, the flyweight would have to be rotated outside of the cover.
STM Supertip setup but the geometry is similar. Starting at about a minute and a half he gets into the weight on the tip

 

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Thanks for the link. I had not recognized that the tip weight could act against the rest of the cam arm weight when the cam arm has a strong curve.

I'm wondering if this can be taken as a universal truth, or if there are cam arms that are straight enough that the weight is not outside the tangent of the cam arm pin.
 

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With my primary on the work bench, fan/cover side up. When I remove the fan, cover, spring, should the outer sheave fall down onto the inner sheave by itself? Or at least easily slide down by hand? Mine needs to be forced down harder than I would expect it to. Maybe this is why it's taking me so many weights to get lower belt engagement? Also, my one way bearing doesn't spin freely. It spins but again, not as freely as I would expect. I tried cleaning everything out with WD40 & then brake cleaner but it didn't make any difference. The sheaves still need to be forced together. I did get water in my belt housing a couple rides ago. Maybe something internally is rusted up? Any advice?

Thanks.
 

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It should slide back and forth very freely. You definitely have a problem to correct.

A one-way bearing is usually part of the starter drive. Are you trying to chase down two un-related problems? If not and you are just working on the clutches, there are a couple of bearings in the PTO shaft assembly (the tapered shaft the primary clutch attaches to). They should spin fairly freely as well (and in both directions, though they do not ever run backwards). You might try to pop the plastic/rubber bearing shield off to examine the bearing race and possibly re-pack the bearing, but it is easy to damage those shields/seals.
 

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there is a bearing on the primary clutch, not sure why its called one way, but mine spins both ways.. also, when I had my clutch apart, it too was not free to slide. on the first one I did some very light sanding to free it up.. after putting it back on my rig, it was really smooth running, b it acted like it was stuck in low, wouldn't completely release, thus killing the engine when coming to a stop. took that clutch apart 3 times to find the problem, but same results every time..I had an extra clutch, so I rebuilt that one,that too was tight but left that one alone..
 

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Discussion Starter #126
With my primary on the work bench, fan/cover side up. When I remove the fan, cover, spring, should the outer sheave fall down onto the inner sheave by itself? Or at least easily slide down by hand? Mine needs to be forced down harder than I would expect it to. Maybe this is why it's taking me so many weights to get lower belt engagement? Also, my one way bearing doesn't spin freely. It spins but again, not as freely as I would expect. I tried cleaning everything out with WD40 & then brake cleaner but it didn't make any difference. The sheaves still need to be forced together. I did get water in my belt housing a couple rides ago. Maybe something internally is rusted up? Any advice?

Thanks.

I have the same problem. So many people have excessive wear on the buttons and mine(and yours) seem to have no wear at all. I put a little moly grease on the buttons and sliding surface every time I take it apart and it helps but I was thinking of sanding it a little too.

The XX doesn't have a 'one way' bearing like the Polaris does. That's why they freewheel when the RPM gets too low. But yes, that bearing in the middle should spin pretty easy. That is what the belt is spinning on when you are idling.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Did some rock crawling up at Red Lake and Coyote Lake this weekend with MCR500. The clutch is so much better than it has ever been but it is still not perfect. Here is a decent video of a section by Red Lake around 3000rpm and 3mph. The clunking and popping is the front shocks unloading. Kinda annoying but it has always done it since I took off the front sway bar

 

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if it was a higher pitch i'd think it would be my bones creaking...did you remove the sway bar to increase articulation?...i had the dealer replace the oem original sway bar with the replacement sway bar textron offered...quieted things a great deal but still have enough articulation for our rock n' boulder trails we have in our mtns...
 

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I have the same problem. So many people have excessive wear on the buttons and mine(and yours) seem to have no wear at all. I put a little moly grease on the buttons and sliding surface every time I take it apart and it helps but I was thinking of sanding it a little too.

The XX doesn't have a 'one way' bearing like the Polaris does. That's why they freewheel when the RPM gets too low. But yes, that bearing in the middle should spin pretty easy. That is what the belt is spinning on when you are idling.
Are the buttons the approximately .5" diameter black discs (six total) that slide up & down between the aluminum towers on the back of the outer sheave? I obviously don't know the technical terms. I only have a couple hundred miles on mine. Maybe they're just not broke in yet. Maybe some of that dry graphite powder will help?
 

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30 yrs ago we would use a molybdenum spray on sliding surfaces like the towers that the buttons slide against and the ramps on the secondary clutch helix. The drawback with any of these lubricants is that they must be reapplied frequently. I cleaned and lubed those clutches before every race weekend, which basically meant every 2 hours of use.

crawlr got the point across as far as the role that the clutch bearing or collar plays. If what he wrote confused anyone, the clutch spins while the belt remains stationary.
 

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I have some real world results now. We spent the weekend at about 3000ft and up and the clutch worked awesome.

I started with 3 magnets in the heal of the adjustable weights, the Speedwerx blue stripe spring, and the stock helix.
Engagement was 2500 and WOT was 8600.

I switched to the AC 35-195 spring and the engagement went down to 2400 and the WOT was up to 8800.

Then I put in the Venom 36-45 helix and the engagement stayed 2400 but the WOT went to 9100-9300 depending on conditions. The Venom helix is non-ebs which means no engine braking and I learned that I like engine braking. If you want to get on and off the throttle without slowing the car down then this is the helix for you.

Engagement, rock crawling, acceleration, fast twisty trails, slow technical trails, wide open flying, half throttle cruising, were all the best they have ever been in this car. The only thing I want to be better is the hold back going down steep hills so I don't have to ride the brakes on technical rocky decents.

Personally I want the car to do what my right foot is doing. The stock helix has a pretty aggressive EBS and I want something in the middle. I think the Speedwerx might be the right one but it is twice the money of the others.
just wanted to check that you just changed the helix and it gave you 3-500 rpm on top? I still can't get over 8500 rpm with 32" sand tires and the helix is the only thing I haven't changed. I am ok not having ebs so thinking about ordering the venom you did
 

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Discussion Starter #132
just wanted to check that you just changed the helix and it gave you 3-500 rpm on top? I still can't get over 8500 rpm with 32" sand tires and the helix is the only thing I haven't changed. I am ok not having ebs so thinking about ordering the venom you did

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I pulled the clutches apart for a good cleaning. My primary is sticking, like drpalo's, and the effort to move the outer sheave in and out is not linear across the range of movement. The plastic fan mounting holes have ovaled, so keeping the clutch in balance is now iffy.

890 miles on the machine, still in warranty. I wonder what AC will say about this when I take it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #134
I pulled the clutches apart for a good cleaning. My primary is sticking, like drpalo's, and the effort to move the outer sheave in and out is not linear across the range of movement. The plastic fan mounting holes have ovaled, so keeping the clutch in balance is now iffy.

890 miles on the machine, still in warranty. I wonder what AC will say about this when I take it in.
Well the good news is you are not wearing out the buttons like a lot of XX's do. I put some Moly grease on the surface where the buttons ride before almost every ride now because mine are sticky too.

Also, I left my plastic fan off a while ago because I was tired of trying to line up the holes. No problem so far but I have always been aware of the abuse that I put on the belt so I know when it's time to be nice to it.
 

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The Speedwerx bushings look like a clever way to improve the plastic fan.

Replacement covers are interesting, but IIRC the cover gets machined to balance the clutch assy. So the real cost is X plus the cost to re-balance the clutch.
 
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