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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 200 miles on my WC, looking to change the oil. Where can I buy a few oil filters on line? What is the proper part number? Assuming you break something, where do you buy replacement parts for the WC? The AC site does not seem to have a parts page?
 

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I have 200 miles on my WC, looking to change the oil. Where can I buy a few oil filters on line? What is the proper part number? Assuming you break something, where do you buy replacement parts for the WC? The AC site does not seem to have a parts page?

That is a standard Oiled foam filter, the same type you will find in ant bike. You can wash & clean it with a good K&M or other motorcycle type filter cleaner & then re-oil & re-use. You can do this many times until you start to notice the foam getting worn out.

I use No-toil brand for my motorcycle foam filters.
It's a super-tacky, dirt-grabbing, water-resistant Air filter oil that increases horsepower. It will not wash out with gas, solvents or water alone. But, it will wash out quickly and easily and will come completely clean with the high concentrated No-Toil Cleaner and water. The oil is extremely tacky once the alcohol evaporates out in less than 30 minutes.

First you the Filter cleaner and allow it to sit for about 5 min. Then wash in warm soapy water, rince in clear clean warm water until soap is gone and then allow to dry. Ounce it is dry, squeeze some filter oil on it and place it into a zip lock bag. Message it until you see that the oil is evenly distributed on the filter then place it on the filter holder


Best thing to do is to have three filters on hand. One in your machine & 2 that are pre-oiled and ready to go. That way you can change the filter in the field if one gets dirty and put the dirty one in a bag to clean later ounce you have a couple to do at the same time which sames time & cleaning materials. Also you have no down time waiting for the filter to dry


Mike
 
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Mike he was talking about oil filters lol :}~ To think we share the same name, RABBIT SEASON!
 

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Mike he was talking about oil filters lol :}~ To think we share the same name, RABBIT SEASON!

OPPPP's

Ahh, come on, at least cut me a little break, it was still good info if you if you are a newbe & never cleaned & oiled a air filters before.

Mike
 

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Lol it was but I needed to open wabbit season, it just seemed justified!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Next question. I hate foam "air" filters. Does anyone know if K&N has an after market yet, or anyone for that matter?
 

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Next question. I hate foam "air" filters. Does anyone know if K&N has an after market yet, or anyone for that matter?

No But,

Rremove the WC filter and take measurements of the Filter box & Intake hole. Then go to the K&N MFG Website https://www.knfilters.com and use their Find Air Filters by Dimension APP.


There is a good chance you can find a replacement filter that will fit.

Now for the cautions.

Make sue you don't get a filter that is to big where you can't get to the hold down clamp.

Make very sure that you get a Filter skin and place it over the K&N filter Dry.

There has many discussions and this and the general conciseness is that the K&M filter does not do as good of a job of keeping out stuff as a foam filter does. The filter skin helps to over come this. Also, if you carry spares you can just change the skin in the field after each day which will greatly extend the time of having to re-oil the main filter. You can even do this with the foam filter to get the same effect.

When I had my Modified Honda Pilot, one of the mods I made was to the intake. I changed out the foam filter for a oiled K&N. I then modified the air box to allow me to run two air intake tubes to a higher position and put dry foam filter & skins on the end. This greatly increased the air flow to the engine and also allow me to simply knock off the dust during the day that collected on the dry foam filters. The main filter only had to be serviced after hundred of miles because the dry filters did most of the work of blocking the majority of the bigger dust particles and the main K&N filter only was needed to catch any fine stuff that got by.

Mike
 

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i have 200 miles on my wc, looking to change the oil. Where can i buy a few oil filters on line? What is the proper part number? Assuming you break something, where do you buy replacement parts for the wc? The ac site does not seem to have a parts page?
from me of course lol!!! We are a a cat dealer so if you need anything let me know
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
He makes a good point regarding foam vs K&N. With that said, I have 6 K&N folders today that works fine, easy to clean assuming they have the outer skin cover as well. Cleaning the foam with 2 stages is a little more of a pain, not to mention they break down in time vs K&N.

Has AC release a users guide / shop manual to the public? For my 4 Yamaha's, go web site, select model, then parts and you have it all down to the nut and bolt. Would this be to advanced for AC? I have not managed to find it to date, I am new to AC.

Thanks in advance
 

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I just got a parts list with blow up assembly pics from TXChristopher. PM me your email addy and I'll fwd it to you.


As far as K&N filters go, I've seen too many tests that prove that K&N air filters allow too much dirt to pass through. Yes, they flow more air, but the stock engine produced the power with the stock filter. Even my heavily modded diesel truck went from 250 hp and 450 ft-lbs of torque (measured rwhp) to 450 hp and 915 ft-lbs of torque with the stock paper air filter.

Foam air filters flow better than paper filters, and they filter better than a K&N, so I'll just stick to stock. If a stock paper air filter can flow enough air to a 6.6L engine to produce 450hp at 32 lbs of boost without pulling the airbox vacuum gauge at all, it flows plenty.

Considering the stock WC air filter has plenty of surface area, it looks like it will still flow great even partially dirty.


If this is a racing engine that you're going to tear down every couple of races then air filtration is no big deal. However, I want to make the engine last as long as possible, so I'm going with the stock setup.
 

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I just got a parts list with blow up assembly pics from TXChristopher. PM me your email addy and I'll fwd it to you.


As far as K&N filters go, I've seen too many tests that prove that K&N air filters allow too much dirt to pass through. Yes, they flow more air, but the stock engine produced the power with the stock filter. Even my heavily modded diesel truck went from 250 hp and 450 ft-lbs of torque (measured rwhp) to 450 hp and 915 ft-lbs of torque with the stock paper air filter.

Foam air filters flow better than paper filters, and they filter better than a K&N, so I'll just stick to stock. If a stock paper air filter can flow enough air to a 6.6L engine to produce 450hp at 32 lbs of boost without pulling the airbox vacuum gauge at all, it flows plenty.

Considering the stock WC air filter has plenty of surface area, it looks like it will still flow great even partially dirty.


If this is a racing engine that you're going to tear down every couple of races then air filtration is no big deal. However, I want to make the engine last as long as possible, so I'm going with the stock setup.


Very well said we have had the same issue with k&n good filter for racing but foam seems to protect a lil better...
 
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