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Discussion Starter #1
I blew a hole in my 2015 Wildcat 1000x engine/transmission case. After sitting at the dealer for 3 months they finally let me know that it'd be $7K for them to replace it o_O. Soo, rather than that I decided I'm going to do an engine swap, I have a moderate amount of fabrication, mechanic and electrical experience.

For the engine, I located a brand new Arctic Cat M7000 snowmobile engine (like in the YXZ, XX). The engine included the wire harness, instrument cluster, clutches, etc.

So far, here is what I have sourced for the build:

  • M7000 engine/primary clutch/harness/cluster/ecu/exhaust/intake
  • Polaris Sportsman 800 transmission & secondary clutch
  • YXZ airbox and oil tank
  • Various drive shaft parts

I intend on keeping it 4wd using the stock X differentials and with the Polaris transmission it will have high/low/reverse.

Major challenges I face with the build:

  • Custom wiring
  • Determine if the Polaris secondary clutch will work with the M7000 primary. Springs/Helix/Belt width & pitch/etc.
  • Custom drive shafts & engine/transmission mounts
  • Fitting it all in the engine bay

I'm not sure if the Polaris transmission will hold up to the higher HP of the engine, but I hear good things. Should be a fun project, it'll take a while do to my busy schedule. I plan on shooting video along the way. I look forward to any feedback anyone might have :)
 

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I'm pretty sure the clutch will be fine. Is your M7000 engine a turbo one? If not and you plan to push big boost anytime, you'll want to strengthen the bottom end. Turbo one comes that way. Even without strengthing, just using the stock bottom end, you can still push 6 - 7 lbs of boost without any issues which would likely put you up near the 190 - 200 hp mark. Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm pretty sure the clutch will be fine. Is your M7000 engine a turbo one? If not and you plan to push big boost anytime, you'll want to strengthen the bottom end. Turbo one comes that way. Even without strengthing, just using the stock bottom end, you can still push 6 - 7 lbs of boost without any issues which would likely put you up near the 190 - 200 hp mark. Good Luck!
It's not the turbo.. I have a built Can Am X3 (300+ hp) for my go-fast machine. The Wildcat was my trail machine, although if it proves to be a reliable build, I'll probably go for a turbo :D. Thanks for the info!
 

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I did some very preliminary research into grafting an XX rear suspension, engine & transaxle before trading in our X Ltd. Fitting the 3 cyl in between the frame rails looked like a close fit, but do-able.

If the X engine & trans internals are okay, perhaps you could buy Sand-n-Sea's spare case and re-assemble your internals into it? A friend had to do that on his '16 X last year.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I did some very preliminary research into grafting an XX rear suspension, engine & transaxle before trading in our X Ltd. Fitting the 3 cyl in between the frame rails looked like a close fit, but do-able.

If the X engine & trans internals are okay, perhaps you could buy Sand-n-Sea's spare case and re-assemble your internals into it? A friend had to do that on his '16 X last year.
I thought about grafting in the XX rear as well, I may end out going that route if this set up doesn't work out. The best way I've found to fit it all in is to mount the Polaris trans in front of the engine. In this case the engine and trans fit, but, I'd have to pull the trans to service the driven clutch, unless I cut out part of the lower frame on the X. I'm thinking I'll cut out the frame and weld in a new frame tube that leaves room to remove the driven. One of my primary goals is to make it easily maintainable.

If I could get a case at a reasonable price I may buy it and re-assemble the stock engine and sell it. That would help fund this project. Ideally I'd like more power than the stock engine can provide w/o major modifications.
 

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Doing the XX rear suspension and drivetrain like a complete cartridge lets you stay OEM for a lot of important stuff. I wouldn't want to fab rear halfshafts and then drive 50 miles out into the desert/forest/whatever.

I didn't look hard at the Polaris trans, but it looked to me that it is a transaxle, i.e. the halfshafts would plug into it. How will that work if it is in front of the engine? If I'm wrong and you will run a rear diff, please tell me you have a replacement for that Tonka-toy sized unit used on the 1000 / X.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Doing the XX rear suspension and drivetrain like a complete cartridge lets you stay OEM for a lot of important stuff. I wouldn't want to fab rear halfshafts and then drive 50 miles out into the desert/forest/whatever.

I didn't look hard at the Polaris trans, but it looked to me that it is a transaxle, i.e. the halfshafts would plug into it. How will that work if it is in front of the engine? If I'm wrong and you will run a rear diff, please tell me you have a replacement for that Tonka-toy sized unit used on the 1000 / X.
The Polaris is a transmission with front/rear output shafts. I am fabricating both drivelines. I plan on rebuilding and using the stock diffs. That's one of my concerns, if they'll hold up to the higher HP. 🤔
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will be using torque limiting couplers in the drive shafts to take out some of the jolt, hopefully that'll help.
 

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Get ready to follow Sand-n-Sea's excellent thread on rebuilding the rear diff.

My list of stock stuff to eliminate in an engine swap would be 1) engine 2) trans 3) rear diff, and none of those would be negotiable.
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Get ready to follow Sand-n-Sea's excellent thread on rebuilding the rear diff.

My list of stock stuff to eliminate in an engine swap would be 1) engine 2) trans 3) rear diff, and none of those would be negotiable.
Mmm, perhaps I should look at other diff options, I just don't want to mess with custom half shafts and finding lengths, shaft sizes and spline counts on existing half shafts is nearly impossible it seems.. I'd also have to consider gear ratios with the front diff and rear geometry unless I did the full rear end and front diff of an XX, which would get really pricey. I saw Sand-n-Sea's excellent thread on rebuilding the rear diff, I was hoping that'd be enough for it to hold up somewhat decently, the needle bearing is the biggest issue it seems, since there is not a higher quality replacement and it takes the grunt of the forces.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Okay, I am reconsidering going with the xx rear transaxle. I just need to find the final gear ratio (see if the stock x front diff will work), width of the transaxle (where the axles insert), shaft diameter and spline count of the axles on the trans side. Hopefully I can get this info w/o having to commit to purchasing it first 😒
 

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I got deep enough into an XX swap to have researched the drive ratios, and IIRC, the front diff ratio of an X and XX are the same. Seems like I found that info in the parts explosions on countrycat.com.
 
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Thanks! I was looking at the parts diagram as well and saw that the pinion and ring gear tooth counts were about the same. Didn't notice that they had the actual ratio listed on the assembly 👍
 

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No problem.

As the miles pile up, I'm loving the XX. BUT - an X with an XX drivetrain would be a terrific package.
 
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