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Sportbike motor: There are so many issues with the 1000 / X that have to be solved. The rear diff is too weak for any engine swap that would increase performance and the width of the diff is critical to rear axle / rear suspension workings. Using the XX rear suspension and transaxle solves a lot of things, including an output shaft for 4wd, a ratio compatible with the front diff, Reverse and you'll get Low and High range. That would seem to be a good starting point for a sportbike motor, but I have never tried to figure out what size sprocket you would need to fabricate for the transaxle input shaft. I assume it would need to be pretty small, and if that is indeed the case, would it be durable?

If you have to go through all of that, adapting the complete backend of an XX seems easier. I thought about it for a few weeks, put our X back to stock and traded it on an XX. With that said, you will have a very unique side-by-side, which is pretty damn cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
If I was to go with a sportbike engine I would likely go with this


But yeah, you'd lose 4wd and it's pricey at $6500. But it gives you the motor mount and full rear drive assembly for a GSXR, just have to graft it in, paint/powder and wire/plumb it up. Oh yeah, and figure out your upper suspension mounts..
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
There is a guy on youtube that goes by Glassglowz that built up a UTV based on a RZR using a sportbike engine and the RZR transaxle. Overall it seems like it's been decent, but the issues he's had are around the sprockets/chain connecting to the transaxle. To much heat being generated there do to the small sprockets and short chain run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
In the end you'd be better off trading in, selling or parting out the X unless you want a project like I did. It's a labor of love no doubt.

I have to say though, it is one of the funnest SXS's I've ridden, it feels really light and the power is great! So far I've got 135 miles on it breaking it in w/o issue.
 

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One of my ambitions was to try to see if I could make a conversion kit if someone wanted to tackle the job, but after all was said and done, there is a lot of work involved with this conversion. I think doing a conversion with an older, carbureted 2 stroke would have been a lot easier. Or even a sportbike engine, if you could get a reasonably priced FNR gearbox. It would suck to lose 4wd though.
Yes, that's my dilemma, I have an 2013 .5 X 1000 that the starter gears went boom! the case is screwed and now I need a swap! not sure what to do?? wish there was a swap kit for these as I like the ride and look compared to my RZR!
 

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Sportbike motor: There are so many issues with the 1000 / X that have to be solved. The rear diff is too weak for any engine swap that would increase performance and the width of the diff is critical to rear axle / rear suspension workings. Using the XX rear suspension and transaxle solves a lot of things, including an output shaft for 4wd, a ratio compatible with the front diff, Reverse and you'll get Low and High range. That would seem to be a good starting point for a sportbike motor, but I have never tried to figure out what size sprocket you would need to fabricate for the transaxle input shaft. I assume it would need to be pretty small, and if that is indeed the case, would it be durable?

If you have to go through all of that, adapting the complete backend of an XX seems easier. I thought about it for a few weeks, put our X back to stock and traded it on an XX. With that said, you will have a very unique side-by-side, which is pretty damn cool.
Hey guys I would like to chime in as I am looking for some advice as to what to do with my blown up x 1000 due to starter boss failure. I saw this video on you tube as a guy took a motorcycle engine and trans and converted it to a transmission, I was thinking that I could do the same to the original wildcat x1000 engine I have by pulling heads, cylinders, and crank and all the guts associated with the power plant portion and block off all holes and turn it into a transmission only, then using a motor cycle engine and connect that directly to the transmission drive shaft via chain, ( just like the Glassglowz guy) and I would have all the features of the original trans, ( forward hi and low, reverse, and four wheel drive ) as I would be using the same wildcat drive train?? Might need to relocate Radiator and feul tank but I would be ok with that??


your thoughts??
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Interesting idea for sure, the concerns I could see would be:

1- Chain/sprockets overheating do to the small sprockets and short chain length that would be required. Glassglowz ended out building a sealed chain case to keep the chain/sprockets immersed in gear oil. I don't think he's posted a video with the results of that. It would be cool if you could build it so that the chain and sprockets are sealed and share the same oil as the transmission.

2- As mentioned, you'd still be contending with the weak rear differential and gears and bearings in the transmission case and Arctic Cat's lack of parts availability for them. I'd think if you choose a bike engine with similar power to the stock engine you wouldn't see a higher fail rate over the stock engine.

3- You'd be putting new or different forces on the drive shaft and engine/diff/carrier bearings (depending on where you put the sprocket), I'm not sure how they'd hold up to it.

Beyond that, it might be the least intrusive solution to a swap. I never did do a lot of work on the stock engine/gearcase, so I don't know it to well. I'm assuming you'd take out the oil pump assembly and make it purely a splash system in the case? One benefit might be that having separate gear oil vs engine oil might keep the transmission running cooler.

Definitely would be a fun and rewarding build. You can get used bike donors for relatively cheap too.
 

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Interesting idea for sure, the concerns I could see would be:

1- Chain/sprockets overheating do to the small sprockets and short chain length that would be required. Glassglowz ended out building a sealed chain case to keep the chain/sprockets immersed in gear oil. I don't think he's posted a video with the results of that. It would be cool if you could build it so that the chain and sprockets are sealed and share the same oil as the transmission.

2- As mentioned, you'd still be contending with the weak rear differential and gears and bearings in the transmission case and Arctic Cat's lack of parts availability for them. I'd think if you choose a bike engine with similar power to the stock engine you wouldn't see a higher fail rate over the stock engine.

3- You'd be putting new or different forces on the drive shaft and engine/diff/carrier bearings (depending on where you put the sprocket), I'm not sure how they'd hold up to it.

Beyond that, it might be the least intrusive solution to a swap. I never did do a lot of work on the stock engine/gearcase, so I don't know it to well. I'm assuming you'd take out the oil pump assembly and make it purely a splash system in the case? One benefit might be that having separate gear oil vs engine oil might keep the transmission running cooler.

Definitely would be a fun and rewarding build. You can get used bike donors for relatively cheap too.
All great info my man, and thank you for bringing up these potential issues, I am researching bikes right now I think I would use a BMW f650gs, as the gear/ belt drive is on the right side of the bike instead of the left as most other bikes are, also this is only a 50HP motor water cooled and not too crazy as I would have 5 gears to run through, I think the a splash system in the trans and as you pointed out, separate engine might keep the heat down, could add an oil cooler, but I don't think it's needed. as far as the stress and the trans holding up, not sure till we test it, and the last would be the chain drive, I had a chain drive on my Hayabusa sand rail and it seem to run fine, never had an issue, I do have an extra fan with this model that the former owner added to the TEAM clutch and I could use that for direct blowing on the chain drive?? one issue I have is researching the sprocket or gear that will be on the trans, not sure how big or how small to go??? obviously, bigger in back more torque and smaller more top end speed, any thoughts on this other than trial and error???
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
Looking back at Glassglowz initial chain/sprocket setup video, he is running a taller sprocket than stock on the engine and a smaller sprocket on the gearcase. This might be because he is using a sprocket/engine shaft extender and didn't have a smaller sprocket option. This, of course, means the engine sprocket is pulling a lot more chain per revolution than it would with the smaller stock engine sprocket. I believe that coupled with having small sprockets on both ends and consequential short chain run are what is heating up the chain and wearing it out, he's also running a high revving sportbike engine, so, who knows for sure if it would apply to your build. At any rate, you'd need to run a lot smaller gear ratio ( smaller gearbox sprocket) than the bikes wheel sprocket since you have reduction already in the gearbox/diff and are also likely running bigger tires than the bike. That's my $.02 anyway.
 

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Trying to retain the 1000/X transmission and bevel gear section would, IMHO, lead to all sorts of packaging problems, and then you would still have bevel gears. Better to adapt a separate transaxle. The XX gear ratio matches the front diff on a 1000/X.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
I agree, the Wildcat XX transaxle would be the best option, they are usually a bit pricey at $2k or more used. Then you have to either build custom CV axles combining the XX axle and X axle or change out to the XX spindles/hubs/trailing arms/CV Axles/calipers/wheels/etc (as I did) as well as the custom front driveline and trans mounts. At 50HP you might also be able to use something like a Polaris HO ATV transaxle, you'd still need fabricate the same stuff and also insure that the Polaris transmission you get has the same ratio as the X front diff, but they can be had for $500 or less used.

253087
 
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