Wildcat Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all!
First off I am a noob to side by sides.
I just picked up a 2014 Wildcat 4 X
IMG_8489.JPG
Since it is a family ride most of the time I want to make it safer.

1. Roll cage upgrade to prevent a crush.
IMG_8695.JPG
I am having trouble finding anyone that makes a full roll cage. I saw one that was much lower in height. I will have stock seats for now and want to keep the head room for helmets and possible intrusion/crush clearance on a roll over. Looks come second to safety.
Any body make a full cage?
Kit? I have a friend who has done many cages who can weld it up in a jiffy.

Mod stock cage? I thought about adding an intrusion bar (mostly for deer+strength), headache bars and a cross bar in the back to the stock cage. All welded. I have yet to remove the rear plastic for the engine so that may be a problem.
Any suggestions/ pics please.

2. Belts.
I am thinking 5 point X 2" harnesses. Hand restraints. Snap hook top attaching points.
Do they work with stock seats?
What happens if I upgrade later to suspension seats?

3.Rear axle upgrade kit. 0437-136 It comes with the nut retainer and bigger studs.
I want the bigger studs and retainer on the front.
Any PN for those?
BTW I am just going to weld sockets on the retainers.


4. Anything else that seems like a safety issue?

5.Does this model have the old engine case or the upgraded one?

6.Any other immediate issues? I'm trying to keep costs down when possible.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,613 Posts
Welcome st96badboy. IMO, you're going to be hard pressed to find anyone making cages anymore for the 4X. You would probably be better of modding the stock cage, and trying to strengthen it up. 5 point harnesses should work with whatever you have, stock or suspension seats. Definitely upgrade the studs to 12mm. Makes sure you have at least one, if not two extra belts incase you break them during riding. You don't want to be stranded. The old engine case? Are you referring to the clutch? The X models have the Team clutch, if that's what you're asking. Keeping the costs down, now that's a good one!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,738 Posts
Yes, your '14 has the engine case that is subject to the starter drive issues. The final (?) mod for that didn't show up until either late '16 or sometime during the '17 model year.

I'm not sure what you mean by welding nuts to the retainers. The only way that would work would be for you to drive the studs out of the hub every time you need to undo the nut and pull an axle out. The most common way to grease the wheel bearings is via a special tool that temporarily replaces the axle so that you can pump grease through the tool into the bearings, so pulling the axles can be a yearly thing. (A few 'cats have been modified with bearings that have an hole in the exterior race, lined up with a grease zerk installed in the knuckle.) Perhaps you meant you will be welding sockets to the retainers?

Seats: By mentioning snap-hooks it sounds like you are already thinking about the need to pull the seats out to clean up the 'cat. Just make sure there is enough length from the eyebolt to the latch for the snap hardware and belt length adjusters to fit where you want them. I like pull-ups, and I like them to not be poking into me, i.e. I want them on the side of the seat. It might be difficult to fit adjusters and snap-hardware into that length. My lap and shoulder belts are bolted in. I just leave them in the car when I remove the seats.

As you engineer your harness installation, think about whether you will need or want seat sliders and what that means to your anti-sub placement. I'm old enough that how to get back to camp if I have a medical emergency was something to plan for. My wife needs the seat to move much, much closer to the wheel and pedals. By mounting my 6 pt dual anti-sub straps to the sliding part of the seat, they will work for her without much, if any, adjustment. If bolted to the floor, it would be hard to make them work properly in both positions. I have PRP seats and frames, and their stuff is much more robust than OEM. I'm confident my anti-subs are 100% safe with my PRP setup, but I'm not sure I would feel that way if I installed them that way on the OEM seats.

The angle of the shoulder harness from the seat or shoulder (whichever will determine the height) to the attachment point is very narrow. They should run from horizontal to a maximum down angle of 20 degrees, with 10 degrees considered optimum. Changing to aftermarket seats later may mean you need to change the level of your shoulder harness attachment. Shoulder belts that run down at too steep an angle will compress your spine in a bad accident.

I picked up larger studs and lugnuts on Amazon. Dorman 610-360 studs. The thread size and pitch is 12mm x 1.5 pitch. When you go to larger studs, some wheels are so tight around the lug nut area that spline-drive lug nuts are required.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
PRP seats are out of reach right now.
Great tip on the shoulder harness my being moved later. I was thinking about having the harness bar welded in (maybe not).
I over engineer everything and my anti sub strap will be reinforced if I think it needs it.
I as for 5 points. If you can't use the anti sub strap can you still buckle 4 point style? (for an Emergency)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hollywood yes "you're going to be hard pressed to find anyone making cages anymore for the 4X" I could not find ANY there were not custom. I meant the starter drive issue on the case. Mbrandt1402 called it. I will look into reinforcing it with weld material before it breaks.
Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,738 Posts
... If you can't use the anti sub strap can you still buckle 4 point style? (for an Emergency)
Not with my harnesses. I like cam-locks. I feel that the speed with which they release, and the ease of how you belt in (just snick each belt into the buckle, instead of lining them all up on the latch tongue) makes up for the effort required to keep them clean and working properly. The buckle is attached to the Y tab that connects the two anti-subs, so using just 4 points would require having a pick or punch to release the camlock buckle from the anti-subs. If I'm having a problem, there is no way my wife would remember how to remove the buckle from the anti-subs.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top