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Discussion Starter #121
After you remove the large c-clip you can gently tap out the pinion gear from the nose. If the bearings are good it should come out without too much effort.
If the bearings are toast and the case is scarred, then it can be a pain.
I would think if you are that far in you would replace all bearings and seals.
 

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Just finished my first of 2 rear diff rebuilds using the info in the thread and the repair manual that is posted online.

First, I want to add that the bearings press in way easier if you heat up the aluminum case before trying to press in the bearing. I heated mine in the oven to 200 degrees and 2 of the bearings went in with hand pressure. The needle on the pinion and the side case were very easy. The main housing and bearing that holds the input shaft needed the press, but it was a very light effort. Well worth the time to heat them up, just be sure to wear gloves.

Second, I decided that since I was going to all this trouble I bought the Arctic Cat lash measuring tool. It is about $15 and I found that my backlash from the ring to the pinion was slightly out of spec. My original shims were both .059 inch thick and I ended up with .017 inch backlash. The spec calls for .011 to .015 inches. Using the .055 inch shim under the ring and .063 inch shim over it kept the side to side end play the same .004 inches that it was. Backlash measured slightly under .014 inches, which is in spec. I probably could have gone with an even thinner shim under the ring and tightened it down to the minimum side of the spec, but the manual says the gears run quieter at the high side of the spec.

After double checking the ring gear end play, I disassembled the diff to check the thrust button space. I assumed that I would need to add thickness under the button since I move the gear away from the case cover. Turns out I need to make the spacer because to get the button in spec I need the spacer top be .071 inch thick, and the thickest one Arctic Cat makes is .067 inch thick.

Here are pictures of the setup to check backlash.

View attachment IMG_0580.JPG

View attachment IMG_0581.JPG

Some quick subtraction gives slightly under .014 inch backlash.

Next I checked the end play.
 

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For end play, some quick subtraction gives .004 inches which is in spec. Since I did not change the overall total thickness of the shims used I expected that the end play would still be good unless the case had somehow gotten wider.

View attachment 221697

View attachment 221705

I used the All Balls bearing kit except for the pinion bearing which I upgraded to a SKF. The pinion bearings take most of the abuse and I figured I would try using a better bearing in that location.
 

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Well, my turn to join the rear gear case carnage club! Mine started out as just a faint clunking nose that we just couldn't pinpoint. It lasted for the last few miles of a fairly mellow trail ride. Brought it home, raised it off the ground and checked, rotated, wiggled, and tightened everything. Couldn't find anything wrong. Chalked it up to sway bar noise. Loaded it up the following weekend, and hoped for a good day. Made it about 100 feet and with one loud clunk it stopped going. In gear you could see the driveshaft going into the rear gear case spinning, but no power to the wheels. Not good! Brought it home, tore it apart, and found just exactly the same damage as you have (Sand-n-Sea) pictured, but in addition my pinion gear teeth are pretty chewed up. So, waiting for parts and will get it back together as soon as we have them. Got lucky and found everything I need. Anyway, thanks for the info you have posted here. It was helpful.
 

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Update: It seems the reason for failure in these rear gear cases is the needle bearing that supports the pinion wears and eventually comes apart. Mine had just under 2000 miles when it failed. My buddy has 2014 X Limited, with just a few more miles on it than mine. We decided to tear his down and inspect the bearings. Good thing we did. His needle bearing was starting to come apart. Another ride or two and he would have tore his up. Maybe this needs to become a regular maintenance item? It will for our machines. A full bearing and seal kit is much cheaper than a rebuild. You can see in the picture where the top, or outside end of the needle bearing cage is coming apart. Not good! DSCN0601.jpg
Well, my turn to join the rear gear case carnage club! Mine started out as just a faint clunking nose that we just couldn't pinpoint. It lasted for the last few miles of a fairly mellow trail ride. Brought it home, raised it off the ground and checked, rotated, wiggled, and tightened everything. Couldn't find anything wrong. Chalked it up to sway bar noise. Loaded it up the following weekend, and hoped for a good day. Made it about 100 feet and with one loud clunk it stopped going. In gear you could see the driveshaft going into the rear gear case spinning, but no power to the wheels. Not good! Brought it home, tore it apart, and found just exactly the same damage as you have (Sand-n-Sea) pictured, but in addition my pinion gear teeth are pretty chewed up. So, waiting for parts and will get it back together as soon as we have them. Got lucky and found everything I need. Anyway, thanks for the info you have posted here. It was helpful.
 

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Update: It seems the reason for failure in these rear gear cases is the needle bearing that supports the pinion wears and eventually comes apart. Mine had just under 2000 miles when it failed. My buddy has 2014 X Limited, with just a few more miles on it than mine. We decided to tear his down and inspect the bearings. Good thing we did. His needle bearing was starting to come apart. Another ride or two and he would have tore his up. Maybe this needs to become a regular maintenance item? It will for our machines. A full bearing and seal kit is much cheaper than a rebuild. You can see in the picture where the top, or outside end of the needle bearing cage is coming apart. Not good! View attachment 240563
They usually last longer if you do frequent fluid changes. I got about 4K out of mine before she blew.
 

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Damn it, why did i happen to stumble upon this thread. I dont want to do this as it looks wayyyyy to complicated. Hopefully my car lasts a few more trips and fingers crossed I can get a new car next season.
 

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Damn it, why did i happen to stumble upon this thread. I dont want to do this as it looks wayyyyy to complicated. Hopefully my car lasts a few more trips and fingers crossed I can get a new car next season.
As someone on here often says, "Just blow that lock off your wallet." Guess who?
 

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Ok I actually just read the whole post and its not as bad as you made it seem MD!!!! Shim this shim that using caliper come one sir you made it look really hard but looks easy as SNS posted in full detail. But I wont touch it if things work out later this year.
 

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Damn it, why did i happen to stumble upon this thread. I dont want to do this as it looks wayyyyy to complicated. Hopefully my car lasts a few more trips and fingers crossed I can get a new car next season.
Joey, that running joke has been going on since I met you! How many years are there in a Jbl "next season"!!!
 
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As someone on here often says, "Just blow that lock off your wallet." Guess who?
Looks like someone did blow the lock off his wallet. Will you be having your new to me vehicle by 0-dark-30 Friday?
 

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Looks like someone did blow the lock off his wallet. Will you be having your new to me vehicle by 0-dark-30 Friday?
I cant believe the shit show with this seller. It was on again, off again, on again, off again. As it sits now, I think it is not happening. The lock is off the wallet, but damn this guy is making it almost impossible. It would not have been out this trip anyway as I do not have a way to haul the car. I am sure I will have a new to me moho by next dune season, but my wife wants one for the summer.
 

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I cant believe the shit show with this seller. It was on again, off again, on again, off again. As it sits now, I think it is not happening. The lock is off the wallet, but damn this guy is making it almost impossible. It would not have been out this trip anyway as I do not have a way to haul the car. I am sure I will have a new to me moho by next dune season, but my wife wants one for the summer.
So you have a car too? I was talking about something else. Very confused, but that's nothing new, LOL!
 

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I cant believe the shit show with this seller. It was on again, off again, on again, off again. As it sits now, I think it is not happening. The lock is off the wallet, but damn this guy is making it almost impossible. It would not have been out this trip anyway as I do not have a way to haul the car. I am sure I will have a new to me moho by next dune season, but my wife wants one for the summer.
And the drama continues...I dont know whos worse, me our you?!
 

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I have a question for you Missiondude, or anyone else that has one. What is the length from center to the measuring point on the backlash tool? I could easily and quickly build my own if I knew how long t make it.
 

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I'd say you got lucky, or maybe I'm just hard on equipment. :) Mine had a fluid change at 700 miles and again at 1500. It came apart catastrophically at 1800 miles!
 

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...after readin this tread i would say i could do this- mechanicly...

2 questions-

1st could the neeedle bearing alone be changed? from front of diff. without tearing it apart completely? or doesnt make sense?

2nd- without all this measuement tools and shimming things - just put in new parts- not good idea also??
 

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I have redone rear end on car's and pickup trucks and almost nothing changes bearing have a very tight tolerance's it shouldn't change unless you change the gears and sometimes than it don't change much.
 
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Discussion Starter #139
...after readin this tread i would say i could do this- mechanicly...

2 questions-

1st could the neeedle bearing alone be changed? from front of diff. without tearing it apart completely? or doesnt make sense?

2nd- without all this measuement tools and shimming things - just put in new parts- not good idea also??
1- Does not make sense to go through the effort of removing the diff and then only replace the needle bearing. And it would be a pain to remove the needle bearing without 1st pulling the side cover so you can tap it out.
2- It will probably be ok without the measuring of tolerances (if you put it together with ring gear shim position unchanged), but better to check and be sure.
 
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Discussion Starter #140
I'd say you got lucky, or maybe I'm just hard on equipment. :) Mine had a fluid change at 700 miles and again at 1500. It came apart catastrophically at 1800 miles!
How you drive and your tires/mods are a huge factor. One reason I went back to wet clutch was to reduce stress on the drive-train (and specifically the diff).
 
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