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Great write up Sand-n-Sea very informative this is now on my to do list. I would rather do the preventive bearing replacement than replace the diff if it grenades due to bearing failure.
 

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Somehow I have managed to miss this post until today.
Sand-n-Sea . One of the best how to's I have ever seen. Thank you
also, now you have given me something else to worry about. Thanks a lot.
I ordered the all balls kit today and will do this before mine comes apart. Hopefully.
For those of you that have done this did you order any new gaskets or o rings or just reuse the old ones?
 

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Discussion Starter #143
I use the all balls kit and black rtv to put the rear diff back together. I reuse the large side cover o-ring. Lube all bearings and seals with assembly lube as you install them.
 
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I replaced bearings and seals in diff. this week end and was surprised at what good condition all internal parts where in. I've got just over 3700 miles and have been changing gear oil about every 500 miles using Lucas synthetic 75w-140 gear oil. I used all SKF bearings except I used oem pinion needle bearing also used new o-ring and gasket. The only thing I wasn't really happy with is the needle bearing did not need to be pressed out or in. It wasn't loose but could be pushed in just using a finger. Fairly easy job thanks to Sand n Sea's great write up.
IMG_2866.JPG IMG_2867.JPG IMG_2868.JPG

This is what my drain plug looks like at every oil change. IMG_2007.JPG
 

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Does anyone have a rear diff for sale? Or know where to get rig and pinion? My spines on the female side of differential seem to be wore out. I did have a lot of metalic color in my diff fluid as well.
 

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Unfortunately the ring and pinion has been on back order forever. I think they have pretty much quit supporting the Wildcat X. Used rear diff is probably your best bet if you can find one. Stay away from used ones where the owner used their cat as a boat.
 

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That is not the pinion, that is the basket clutch that holds the SLD. It lists for about $135 and sells for about $95 through MLS Powersports. In any case, you need that part, and probably the small driveshaft that goes between the trans and the rear diff. There is also a seal to keep that area clean. Look up all the parts in that area and how they are installed and make sure you get them in the proper order and greased. If you omit the spring and washer from that area, it will likely eat itself up in fairly short order.
 

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It is impossible to tell 100% from the pics, but your ring gear looks like the teeth all have micro-fractures. Could just be the pics though.
 

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That is not the pinion, that is the basket clutch that holds the SLD. It lists for about $135 and sells for about $95 through MLS Powersports. In any case, you need that part, and probably the small driveshaft that goes between the trans and the rear diff. There is also a seal to keep that area clean. Look up all the parts in that area and how they are installed and make sure you get them in the proper order and greased. If you omit the spring and washer from that area, it will likely eat itself up in fairly short order.
When I pull the diff back I and removed the coupler I noticed the spring in the female part was eaten up and crunched?
 

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Been there , done this.....

Once you get the parts, grease on the driveshaft splines AND in the clutch hub are the important parts!


C-ya!!!
 

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This is the clutch basket correct? Or is this the ring gear?
This is the clutch basket correct? Or is this the ring gear?
That is the clutch basket. It is for sure bad. The ring gear is the big ring with teeth on it. It looks like the tooth surface is rough to me and is possibly having micro fractures. Have someone that knows gears take a look at it.
 

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That is the clutch basket. It is for sure bad. The ring gear is the big ring with teeth on it. It looks like the tooth surface is rough to me and is possibly having micro fractures. Have someone that knows gears take a look at it.
Those gears are the clutch basket right? I am pulling it today and going to have it inspected. I'm just wondering if I can replace the clutch basket and be okay? Does the clutch basket have those gears? So when I replace it the spines will be brand new right?
 

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The gears in that pic are definitely eaten up, there is a lot of metal dust inside that gear housing when I wipe it with a white rag. So those gears are the pinion then correct? So I should be looking at a whole new diff...?
 

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The clutch basket is number 26, it is toast. The pinion (#20) looks ok in the pics, but have someone that knows what they are doing look at it for you. The ring gear (#10) looks like it has micro fractures in the pics, but again, have someone look at it for you. You will want all new bearings and seals. If the ring and pinion are bad in addition to the clutch basket, I would just get an entire new unit. You will be in it for a fair chunk of change and I think the ring gears are almost impossible to find. The surface of the pinion that rides in the needle bearing also needs to be checked. If it is wearing and undersized it will throw off the geometry of the contact patch between the gears and the diff will wear out much faster. The thread on the rebuild talks about machining the pinion gear and using a better quality needle bearing that is available for the reduced size shaft. You can save the pinion if that is all that is wrong with it and get a better bearing in the process.
 

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Posts number 122 and 123 in this thread show the pictures that I took when I did mine, and the discussion on how to set up the proper gear lash and thrust button clearance.
 

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Posts number 122 and 123 in this thread show the pictures that I took when I did mine, and the discussion on how to set up the proper gear lash and thrust button clearance.
Thank you so much for all the advice, I will inspect everything this week. Is it normal to have metal on the diff magnet? And metallic color in diff fluid? Some people told me these diffs always have metal when they change it
 
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