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Yes, mine always had shavings. I change the fluid every 250 miles with cheap ass Walmart gear oil. First diff lasted about 4000 miles, second one has over 3000 miles on it. You will know there is a problem when you find bearing races and balls on the magnet.
 

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The diff was originally designed for Arctic Cat quads and was "okay" when the 1000 debuted in 2012. With the extra power of the HO or the X and/or if the machine is ridden hard, the diff just doesn't last. Sand-n-Sea has an extra 60 hp on his turbo machine. Missiondude doesn't have aftermarket horsepower, but rides the heck out of his machine at Glamis. These guys (and many others on the forum) more or less had to become experts on what it takes to make the diff last.

Whatever way you fix your machine (rebuild, used or new), treat the diff to the best gear oil you can find (not the best you can afford, because you really can't afford to put just "good" oil in that overtaxed diff). Change it as often as you do the engine oil. It only holds like a shotglass of oil, so a quart lasts a long time.

I'm partial to Redline products and ran Heavy Shockproof while my X was turbocharged. I'm not going to say that it is THE best fluid to use, but the specs of the oil and the machinery that use it are impressive. My magnetized drain plug did not ever look like the pic that wayfer included in post #144.

From Redline:
  • Film thickness greater than an SAE 75W250, yet low fluid friction like 75W90
  • For heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions, problem gearboxes
  • Most popular ShockProof product, many racing and specialty applications
  • Many performance racing applications like Sprint, Midget, Dirt Late Model and Quick Change Differentials, Detroit Lockers and spools, NHRA Top Fuel and Funny Car rear ends
  • Not recommended for most synchro applications due to the product's extreme slipperiness
It is also very pretty. :)
 

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I appreciate everything! My magnet had metal on it and there was a metallic color in the fluid but no metal chunks or anything. It's got 2030 miles I just bought it and this happened the first ride. So I'm hopping I can get away with just replacing # 26, 27, 28, 30 and a new coupler. Cause those gears are toast in the clutch basket
 

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The diff was originally designed for Arctic Cat quads and was "okay" when the 1000 debuted in 2012. With the extra power of the HO or the X and/or if the machine is ridden hard, the diff just doesn't last. Sand-n-Sea has an extra 60 hp on his turbo machine. Missiondude doesn't have aftermarket horsepower, but rides the heck out of his machine at Glamis. These guys (and many others on the forum) more or less had to become experts on what it takes to make the diff last.

Whatever way you fix your machine (rebuild, used or new), treat the diff to the best gear oil you can find (not the best you can afford, because you really can't afford to put just "good" oil in that overtaxed diff). Change it as often as you do the engine oil. It only holds like a shotglass of oil, so a quart lasts a long time.
Agree 100+%.....
You are only changing 5+ ozs on the quad diff. My 12’ lost one in 2.5K miles and the 16’ almost 3k.
If you drive hard, they get hot as Hell! and just don’t last long term.
Change the oil every 5Hrs and rebuild if it says C-ya and move on.
Oil... I ran BG Ultra Guard 75/90 always. Full synthetic proven to reduce diff temps. Worked for me until it didn’t.
It sucks Text Ron is not supporting the OG models with a good parts supply.

FWIW
C-ya!
 
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