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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,First off thanks to everybody that posts on this great forum! I bought an XX because of a lot of what was on here.I had a Teryx and spent time on that forum and others before buying my XX . Now on to the point of this post . I have a 2018 XX with about 500 miles on it. I got it used and have not put a lot of miles on it yet. I was using it around my house to do some yard clean up( any excuse to drive it) and I was starting and shutting off the engine more often that you would if you were out trail riding or racing. Well then the other day after pulling out of the garage and driving around through the trails on my property for a few minutes, it would not turn off. I turned the key off and it kept running and the instrument panel was still lit. It was like it was not shut off at all. I replaced the ignition switch but still the same thing. I was able to stall it by covering the exhaust. and then I have to disconnect the battery and reconnect it to get it to start again. It is all stock except for a set of 5 point harnesses and I did the bypass for the seat belt switch when I put the harnesses in. I keep it inside a garage but it is not heated. I have driven it in a light rain ,but it has not gotten supper wet. I have had it about 8 months, and got it at the same time I was moving into a new house and moving my business , so I have not put a lot of time on it yet. But I ran it on and off for months with no issues. It started acting up like this in August so it was not cold out yet. I have not had a lot of time to try and figure it out yet. I tried searching the forums and doing a google search , but can not find anybody that has had the same issue, that posted about it. My plan is to go through all of the wiring, disconnect,clean and apply dielectric grease to all connections and check for any chafed or broken wires. But what would you guys suggest?
 

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First I've heard of something like this. Curious to hear what you find.
 

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You can find the wiring diagram on the Country Cat site.
I'm looking at the wiring diagram and the power goes from the voltage regulator to the ignition switch, and then to the 10amp IGNITION fuse. From there it powers up a couple other things on the way to the ECM. The ECM is what is staying on. Does the power steering also stay on?

First, find out if you have power at the ignition fuse with the key off.
If there is no power at the ignition fuse then the ECM could be the problem.
If you have power there then the problem could be in the wiring, power relay, EPS relay, ignition switch, it's connector, the fuse box, something that will feed 12v to the ignition fuse. Pull the fuse and see what side of the fuse the power is on. Unplug things and see what takes the power away from the ignition fuse. It's a process of elimination at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info, I'll check those things out and update as I go through figuring out what is going on. I was hoping that when I did not find anything in my searches about the problem, that it would be a super simple and easy fix. Maybe it will be. If anybody else has had something similar happen please post. I love the XX so far , other then this issue. And I am looking forward to getting out and going on some rides and trying some racing .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've been busy with renovating the new shop and moving my Business to the new location so I have not had much time to troubleshoot my XX issues. But Over the weekend I had a few minutes and I hooked the battery back up. The display lights up without turning the key on now,and it wouldn't try and turn over when I tried to start it. I do have power steering when the battery is connected. I think I might have had the key in the on position when I connected the battery the first time so that might be the cause of the display and not starting. I disconnected the battery turned the key to the off position and waited a minute and re connected a few times but the same thing happened each time. I tried turning it off while the battery was connected and it did not do anything. I checked to see if I had a blown fuse but they all seem ok. I put the 5 point harnesses in not long before this started happening. I only put the driver side one in so far. When I put the harnesses in I used the connector from the seat belt switch and cut that wire and connected it as was shown someplace on this site. Could that have anything to do with the issue? It is a pretty straight forward process so it would surprise me. But that is the only wiring related thing I have touched since getting it. I removed the driver seat and reinstalled it also when putting the harness in. So I still plan on going through and checking all of the connections and cleaning and putting some dielectric grease on them. But if anybody has any ideas on where to start let me know. I downloaded the wiring diagram and service manual from the Country cat site Thanks for that info CRAWLR. I hope to get this sorted out soon. I'm getting the rest of my business stuff moved into the new place this week and then I'll have a little more time to tinker.
 

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I would start with the simple thing first. Unplug the ignition switch. It sounds like the inside of the switch may be in a situation where it is shorted. There is a plug right behind it. You can go through the hood area or take the flat panel off that is directly above the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I replaced that switch right when it first happened. But I tried unplugging it and connecting the battery and still the same thing. I tried shifting into gear then back to park to make sure it was in park and it started up after I did that. I might have had it not all the way into park the last time I tried starting it. Since I have to stall it and disconnect the battery if I start it, I have pushed it around inside the shop if I need to move it. So I might have had it not all the way into park that time it did not want to start. But it still is doing the same thing. I started it up and disconnected the battery and the dash display stays lit up and it runs until I stall it. I did not try unplugging the key switch while running, but when I did disconnect it I had the key in the on position and when I unplugged it from behind, by reaching through from under the hood, it stayed lit. So I figured it would stay running if I tried it while it was running.
 

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Try disconnecting the dashboard connector inspect it clean it if necessary and plug it back in. If that doesn't work do the same to the computers on the firewall above the battery between the seats.
 

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Mine did this last year, wouldnt shut off with the key, had to pull a fuse. I dont remember which fuse. Turns out the guage cluster went bad. Had a dealer replace it under warranty and no problems since. The milage is reset to 0 but the hours are correct due to being stored in the ecm.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The weather was really nice this weekend so I got out on the trails on my property and drove my Wildcat for about an hour. I tried cleaning the connections to the computer, I will look at the cluster connection next. But I had a new issue come up. after driving in tight trails for around 45 or so minutes, at speeds between 15 and 30MPH. I parked for a minute to let a friend take the driver seat and it started to run like the seat belt was not on limited to 3900 RPM . When I installed the harnesses I used the OEM plug that plugged into the lap belt,and cut the wire, then soldered the wires together , sealed it up with heat shrink and did not have any issues with it. So the first thing I checked was that connection. It was clean and the connection I made was still solid. I did not see any chafing on the wires at all. I cleaned the plug and put some dielectric grease on it. I had disconnected the battery when I was working on checking the connection. I reconnected the battery and started it back up and it revved normally again. All of the temps were in the middle to lower of the range. I do not think that the connection I checked was the issue since it was plugged in solidly and clean before I checked it. So I think the not revving is related to whatever the problem is that makes it not shut off. I am thinking it must be an issue with the display like Jorpet said above. Or the ECM. I don't want to just start buying electronics, is there a way to check to make sure it is the issue before I buy a new gauge cluster ? I guess I could always sell the cluster if it ended up not fixing it. but I would rather have a solid idea of what to replace. I figured maybe this new info might help somebody point me in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I ended up going through all the connections and cleaning and applying dielectric grease and still no change. So I took the chance on a used dash display that had almost the same miles as I have. And so far so good. I was hesitant buying a brand new one for the close to $500 retail price. I found some better pricing on it through one of my accounts I have for my shop. But then the miles would be way off compared to the hours. So when the used one came up on Ebay I went for it. I have not drove much since installing it, but I have started and shut it off a few times and all is good so far. Now I was wondering if there is a way to fix the old one? Anybody know what goes wrong that makes this happen? I'll hold onto the old one for a while either way. Hopefully this helps somebody out if they have it happen to them. I hope it is a rare problem as it sounds like it is. So that I do not have it happen again to the used display. But I will know what it is if it happens. Thanks a lot to everybody that posted or just looked at this thread. I have plans on adding a few things to it over the spring and summer and I'll post photos. Not a full on build. Just bumpers, roof, wrap and other small things to get setup to race in New England
 
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