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Yes. I feel what you are saying. It is why I tell people this can hit you in the pocket no matter your choice in rigs. Maybe I would have had more issues if I hadn't been so busy upgrading everthing. I do have plans to update the front dif and tranaxle. So that might be a case where I avoid a break that is coming. Who knows? I do know that all my fluids were replaced by the dealer at 1st service, except radiator and brake.

I have been in mud, but it represents maybe 1 percent of my driving. I also don't rock crawl much. So everyones story kind of depends on the type of driving and other factors. Sometimes it is just bad luck.
 

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It's a great machine dont get me wrong. But does have some major component downfalls. Weddle doesn't have a true upgrade for the tranny, they only change bearings and shim everything tighter. (Which could very well help a lot, but if that is the big fix why isnt textron doing that from factory on the 2020 update) The rem polish is more of a heat prevention and friction reducer. Doesn't do much for overall strength. The gears are still glass.

Stock springs/shocks are lacking for anything with jumps or washboards. But are great for normal trails without jumps. The rear bucks like crazy on a good sized jump. However it does have a smooth ride. YMMV

Cab heat definitely is issue with a half or full windshield, but taking off the hood it goes away.

I've had it 200 miles and so far had stock spark plugs go bad, rear brake sensor bad and tranny blow. I can live with the sensor and spark plug. But 2 trannys blowing in 900 miles is unacceptable.

I came from a cf moto utv which everybody constantly gave me crap for being chinese junk, but I ran the snot out of it for 2000mi and never gave me trouble the entire time I had it minus a shock mount breaking which is self inflicted from running a ton of preload and washboard trails.
 

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Personally, my fix for the water pump will be a Davies Craig electric pump and controller.
 

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I almost did the same thing, because the flow should be better. But I thought the Speed unit was less likely to fail.
 

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When you look at coolant flow requirements as a separate function from engine RPM, it becomes apparent that an electric pump is really a better solution than any mechanical pump. Unfortunately, they cost more and every manufacturer is trying to keep costs down.

There are two very obvious gains:
  1. Since a mechanical water pump has to be sized to keep the engine cool at idle, they all pump too much coolant at high RPMs and suck more power than is really required. A side benefit is that mechanical pumps often cavitate at higher RPMs, and aerated coolant does not transfer heat very well.
  2. If you are only occasionally at WOT, there is a significant lag between the moment you ask for full power and when coolant temps elevate to the point where an electric pump will need to run at a higher RPM. During that lag, you get the benefit described above, plus the fact that the electric pump will still be "idling" until the coolant temp elevates to the point where more coolant flow is required. (If you are racing and running a charging circuit, the time off the throttle isn't long enough to make much difference. If you are running "total loss" electrics and you don't need to increase the size of your battery to accommodate an electric pump, the power that would have been consumed by the mechanical pump is there for acceleration every time you open the throttle.)
 

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..i know you know something about motors- but- i still WANT believe yamaha is NOT aible to produce an reliable sxs motor- they have motorcycle motors revvin over 10.000rpm all day...maybe they gave textron not the best material?? who knows....
 
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