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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
took the cover off my sticking 2014 (600 mi) wildcat trail primary. the sheave was very hard to move back and forth. i sprayed with brake cleaner, etc. and worked it back and forth till i could move it, but i never got it to the point i would call it 'free'. burnished the towers, which helped some. weights are free and center shaft bearing is free spinning... as long as i 'force' the sheaves apart. primary spring was oem stock.

i am going to work on the towers but here is my question:

there is a 'coned' piece that fell off the shaft as i removed the cover and spring. it does not show on exploded view, nor is it mentioned in service manual or any of the clutch upgrade youtube videos. it 'seems' to want to go blunt end first into the clutch cover... but I am not sure. it would have the effect of preloading the spring about 1/4" to 3/8".

what is this? where does it go? why isn't it in ac parts diagram?

thanks
 

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Is it metal or plastic? I'm assuming you had never had the cover off when this item fell out. There should be no preload from the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Is it metal or plastic? I'm assuming you had never had the cover off when this item fell out. There should be no preload from the cover.
it is metal and that is correct, this was my first disassembly of the primary. further research shows a nylon piece called a 'shift stop' on some ac bulletins, and also somewhere i saw a note that not all clutches have the shift stop... but 'warning': it must be installed correctly if present to prevent engine damage. in part that is why this is so confusing.

we are at the front end of a massive rain event and the machine is outside, at my camp, up on a local mountain. i need to get a picture of the part, but can't reasonably get to it right now.

thanks for tolerating me. I always lay parts out in order during any disassembly, but this one surprise me as i had cover in one hand (under slight pressure) moved it away and grabbed the spring with the other hand. 'clink'

oh, and the spring is the ac oem black marked 70-135 ... BUT the flats on the spider threaded part are peened over as if someone attempted further disassembly, not realizing red loctite, heat, and a special tool was involved...?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
i think i am sorting this out. from the -386 vs -498 thread, i believe i read that the nylon shift limiter was only in the old (-386) clutches with the less robust spider (that was often cracking). one obscure piece of info seems to be that speedwerx made a spacer for those old clutches. the thread i was reading had photo links i desperately want to see, but the links don't work. tried to pm op of that thread but i was still under the 5 post min, so here i am posting for count. now, back to that thread....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok, is this correct:

ALL trails came with 0823-376 (wimpy spider)
'13 and early '14 wildcats came with 0823-386 (wimpy spider)
late '14 and on wildcats came with 0823-498 (robust spider)

-386 is no longer supplied, superseded in all applications with -498?

-376 is still the part number for all trails?

so.....

can a -498 be used on a trail? without changing the secondary?
 

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Primary clutch is a 376 for the trail and 553 for the sports. Both of these clutches are the same except for cam weights and maybe the spring. No 2013 trails. 386 and 498 what clutches are these?
 

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Did that use to have threads on the inside of it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Did that use to have threads on the inside of it?
not sure... you thinking it is a homemade spring booster? now that you mention it, it looks a little like a pipe flange, or reducer, doesn't it?

kinda reminds me of something i would try... but the operative word is "TRY" if i got the desired effect i wouldn't leave it in permanent and pass it off without warning.....
 

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Does Everything else on the clutch look like the parts break down diagram?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Does Everything else on the clutch look like the parts break down diagram?
yes. oem spring 0487-70/135 and long slender weights all look as per diagram. only other thing notable is damage/peening/mashing of the corners on the spider nut wrench flats. hard to show in photo, but it was either taken off or attempted to be taken off:


Auto part Wheel Tire Automotive wheel system Automotive tire
 

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There's been some clutches where the locknut comes loose. Need to compare that clutch to another as for that extra piece if it's not broke off and not on the diagram I would propably remove it. I can pull my cover this weekend if you still don't have a good answer as to what it's suppose to look like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Maybe someone trying to cure the sticking clutch syndrome?
that would be quite likely. or attempting to delay engagement to compensate for larger than stock tires.

i spoke with venom, and they suggested after thorough cleaning i return the clutch to stock and then troubleshoot from there. the spring is oem and i might guess 5 years old, so i should measure the rate next time i have it apart. it is quite likely weak.

also spoke with speedwerx about replacement springs, and they said once tires go larger than 27-28" response will be sluggish and they don't recommend simply replacing primary spring (secondary already has their spring) but rather going with full clutch kit with adjustable helix.

i am not into putting THAT much $ into this machine until i really, really, really fall in love with it... but, i was willing to take a chance at $25 and ordered next weight up primary spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Since one of my pet peeves are threads that dead end, with no findings reported after an op asks for help... here is 'all' i found and how i got the machine working.

the primary spring was stock oem 70/135 rate with i believe a 'homemade' spacer preloading the spring by about 0.250" to either compensate for wear/weakening or for the oversize wheel package or for the sticky primary.

- attempts to burnish the towers while primary was on the machine seemed to be going in the right direction

- i installed the speedwerx secondary spring

- i installed a 80/130 primary spring from speedwerx (interestingly labelled as for polaris) and discarded the spacer

- i ordered the EPI puller and removed the primary but did not disassemble the spider

- i measured tower opening top and bottom (6 measurements) and found one tower to be about 0.001 tighter than the other two, and a distinct discontinuity where it looked like the mill 'climbed out' at the very limit of button travel (release direction)

- i inspected the spider button wear pattern for high/low spots on the towers

- using 220 grit emery cloth wrapped on a tongue depresser, i removed a moderate amount of material - on the order of 0.001 from each of six surfaces in two stages (top and bottom)

- i polished out most of the 'grain' using an agressive scotchbrite in the direction of button travel

- i resisted urge to 'test' and BEFORE moving spider cleaned grit and oxide and removed material with brake cleaner

the check ride was deemed a success.... I CAN SHIFT AGAIN.


puller was about $35 dollars, spings about $50, bandaid for skinned knuckle while working with tongue depressor was 'free'. the ACTUAL time after learning curve less than 4 hours.
 

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Definitely nice to here the follow up on the topic. Glad it worked out for you.
 

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376 or 553 clutches for the sport and trails.
 

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376 or 553 clutches for the sport and trails.
10-4 thanks for the response, realized on another thread after I asked. Hope this next one lasts a bit. Looks like previous owner already replaced it on my 14. It’s stamped with a 2020 date.. I love this arctic cat but the amount of stuff I’m already breaking is concerning.
 
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