Double check the torque on your hose clamps before you tear it down.. I've seen 2 machines and heard of a third now that had leaks because of them. My own machine had a leak on the hose that connects up to the right of the header. Antifreeze would dribble down the block and drip in the area of the water pump.

 

I love to see guys looking out for one another. I am the member of several forums but this one stands out in that way.
Good luck with the pump.


Russ

 

It's definitely coming from the weep hole. It is a slow leak but you can see where it starts and expands out around weep hole. May not be a big issue for a while but i would rather it not leak at all. I just notice the coolant tank a little low and started hunting for a leak. Will check clamps on coolant hoses. Probably need replacing anyway just like the oil line clamps.

 

Mine has been like that for over a year probably closer to two. I noticed it gets worse in the cold weather. I bought all the parts to replace just havent gotten to it and it doesnt seem to be getting worse. Just keep an eye on oil and coolant to make sure you dont get coolant in the oil or vice versa since the seal on the water pump is all that seperates the two. When you do fix it, plug the weep hole. Either thread it and insert a screw or fill it with silicone. I think that anyone who rides mud and water gets enough grit and grim in the weep hole to cause the seal to fail prematurely. Id have fixed mine already but i dont feel like pulling the firewall to pull the header to pull the mag cover to get at the seal. Pain in the backside but eventually ill have too.

 

So you think the mud is whats causing it to leak .

 

i dont think it helps. In my case i think its a matter or moisture and grit freezing up and deforming the seal. Doesnt take much water in a tight spot to cause issues when it freezes and expands. So i guess the short answer would be yes the mud is the root cause.

 

Drock if you remove trunk can you still get to that area? Everytime I removed trunk area it left the whole rear end accessible. Not sure about lower engine areas though

 

Access isnt an issue even with nothing removed. The issue is the mag cover cant clear the header. Cover has to pull straight out to clear the magneto so cant slide down as soon as unbolted. In order to come straight out the header has to be removed because of the big loop in it thats directly in your way.

 

DRock so you recommend plugging the weep hole.....

 

Im not talking permanently plugging the hole, just a skim of silicone sealant should do

 

You can access everything by taking bed off. I started taking firewall out but that was going to be a pain. I have the header off now. Parts came in today but we left for vacation. Will probably tackle it Monday evening. So do I need to put gasket seal on engine cover gasket when I re-install cover?

 

It does not hurt to put a thin coating of RTV Sealant on gaskets - just be careful to clean the parts with a solvent like lacquer thinner and to only snug the bolts down (screwdriver tight) until the RTV cures 4-8 hours should do it - then go back and torque the bolts to spec. Yes, it takes longer that way, but the repair is more permanent and less likely to leak.